What To Feed Your Discus Fish

Just like people, discus fish thrive best on a varied diet. While the fish-breeders of yore used to rely only on live food, scorning flakes or pellets, the equation has changed today with dried foods becoming more and more nutritious, without running the risks of bacteria and disease that live food always carries.

Remember, young discus fish can be extremely greedy. They will leap at whatever food you give them, so resist the temptation to overfeed. When the fish grow older, they tend to eat much more slowly – grazing at their food much like cattle.

Another key to understanding a discus fish’s food habits is to know that the fish like their feed at mid water, or at the bottom. Rather than leaping to the surface, your fish may wait till the feed sinks to a suitable height for them to feed.

Here are some items that you can feed your discus fish to make sure that they are healthy, and provided with the requisite amounts of vitamins and proteins.

Flake food Research the best fish flake brands in your area, by talking to your fish dealer or any other aquarium enthusiast you happen to know. The better brands may be more expensive, but are also more nutritious. Soak and squeeze flake food to

Pellets and freeze dried As always, stick to quality brands. Another danger of low quality foods is that they may absorb water and expand, making your fish constipated

Brine shrimp A favorite with discus fish, this may be fed in either live or frozen form. The best thing about feeding brine shrimp to discus fish is that it enhances the fish’s color patterns due to the carotene in it. Defrost and rinse the frozen brine shrimp before feeding it to your fish.

Bloodworms The absolute runaway favorite with discus fish, this is also available either live or in frozen form. Frozen irradiated bloodworms on a daily basis will keep your fish happy, especially if they are being introduced to a new aquarium

Beef heart While the discus fish love beef heart, it can tend to foul up your aquarium especially if you overfeed. I suggest not to try this until you have got used to keeping discus fish.

Discus fry need highly frequent feeding – once every 4-5 hours is a good way to start. Mature discus will do fine on twice-a-day feeds, with bloodworm once a day and dry food for the other feeding.

What some people don’t know is that the right fish food can also keep your discus fish looking brighter in color, more pleasing to their owners as well as their visitors. So feed your discus fish well, and watch them grow in both size and vibrant as the years go by!

How Much Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp Are In Your Fish Tank

In recent years, the exotic freshwater aquarium shrimp has been added to the aquaria hobby. Shrimp has been kept in many tanks in some parts of the world for many years until creative hobbyists found them to be great in home aquarium. Freshwater aquarium fish are being kept and bred for their assorted colors and their non-aggressive behavior. They are now also being sold in pet shops like any other traditional aquatic pets.

Takashi Amano, a Japanese aquarist, introduced a shrimp variety known as the Yamato Numa Ebi in the 1980’s. Also known as the “Japanese marsh shrimp” and “Amano shrimp”, they are more colorful than other freshwater aquarium shrimp. Their color combinations are light brown to reddish brown. They can get as large as 2 inches when fully grown and prefer to eat soft algae. They are sensitive to high levels of ammonia but can tolerate high alkalinity. Coming from a temperate region, they only thrive in waters temperatures ranging from 30 C and below. When algae is not available , they will eat fish food and some other things in the absence of their normal food supply.

Another popular variety is the Cherry shrimp which originated from Taiwan. The most sought after variation of this type is the Red Cherry shrimp which was bred in Germany. They were brought to the Unite States in the 1990’s. The Red Cherry shrimp have care requirements almost the same with the Amano shrimp. They are the same in size and eating habits. Known in the scientific circles as Neocaridina denticulata sinensis, Cherry shrimp are non-aggressive. They are very active and spend most of the time grazing on plant leaves and the tanks bottom for algae.

A known and somewhat popular kind is the Bee shrimps who have also become known as Bumble Bee shrimp. These small freshwater shrimp came from Hong Kong. They grow slowly and only grow to 1 inch in adulthood. Unlike the Amano shrimp and Cherry shrimp, they are not good algae eaters. They consume vegetable matter and soft mosses. They thrive well in waters ranging from 22 to 25C, and a water ph of 7.5 and the water should be free of any ammonia. Bumble Bee shrimp can reproduce 12 times in a year if their habitat is properly maintained. They reach adulthood in half a year and can live to almost one and a half years.

There are large, long-arm shrimp that are preferred by some aquarists but they are known to be aggressive. With their chelipeds they can catch small fish and other small pets in within the tank. The Indian whisker shrimp are one of these species. They also require bigger tanks compared to their smaller counterparts. They must be isolated from smaller shrimp and fish because they may cause disruptions in the habitat.

In caring for freshwater aquarium shrimp, it must be considered that with their size, isolating them would be a good idea. They must be kept in a separate tank because small shrimp are at risk of being eaten by freshwater fish. Avoiding ammonia is also a main consideration and it can be done by selecting a 10-gallon tank. A smaller tank can not give the water quality the shrimp need. They are more sensitive than freshwater fish to water conditions. They can be easily killed by accumulated amounts of ammonia.

For biological filtration, an air-driven sponge filter is one of the better options. Cherry shrimp and a few others like the fine grains of silica sand and the like, as the substrate for the bottomm of their fish tank home. Java moss could be a great addition to the tank. It has been observed that shrimp are more active and productive having Java moss because it does not drastically compete with them in nutrients. Pellets and flakes are good for feeding shrimp but the shrimp will do better with other foods more to their liking. It is a better to give them the amount they can consume in a few minutes. Putting excess food in the tank can affect water quality and may endanger the shrimp.

Water quality must be monitored constantly because the slightest changes in its condition have an immediate adverse effect on the shrimp. The water temperature must be maintained at 25C and a maximum of 30C. Always use a dechlorinator and ammonia neutralizer to reduce the levels of chlorine and ammonia in the tank, and keep them really low to prevent any harm to your shrimp. Toxins must be eliminated from the aquarium on the weekly basis to protect the live shrimp in the tank and should be done on a weekly schedule and in stages of around 30 percent of the water per water change.

The health of the shrimp can be judged with their behavior in the water. They are healthy if they constantly move and look for food. They never hold still unless they drop their shell in the course of growing. As their new shell hardens in about two days, they stay hidden because at this condition they are vulnerable to predators especially in a community tank. Maintaining the parameters of their habitat will ensure their health and longer life span. New and improved ways of caring for them are being discovered as more people appreciate them as part of this hobby.

The market for freshwater aquarium shrimp is slowly gaining ground. The west of the Americas are now seeing the bauty in these pets and getting them for their home aquariums and well as some office fish tanks. The Japanese and other people in the Orient have been doing it for many years now. Keeping shrimp is an old practice rediscovered as a hobby. It took a second look at the shrimp not just as an edible creature, but a living decoration that helped us realize its beauty and vitality.

A Sprinkle Of Salt For Your Freshwater Aquarium!

Did you know that freshwater fish use salt? While it is true that freshwater fish and plants in their natural habitat are used to water of one in a million salt content, a sprinkle of crystal rock salt in one’s aquarium is a secret long guarded in the fish-keeping hobby. This mineral which may come from evaporated seawater or deposits of rocks is both a purifier and a stimulant. It is a natural ingredient for purifying water and for energizing stressed or wounded fish. However, salt can only be effective in small quantities because excessive use is harmful to your pet in the same manner that it increases the risk in heart problems, kidney malfunctions and high blood pressures among humans. Again, proper use must be practiced at all times. One should be guided by the following questions: What type of salt should be used for a freshwater aquarium? When and how frequent should it be used? Is it functional to all fish types? Freshwater aquarium salt is a mystery to most but it is not that weird.

The Best Aquarium Salt

Salt generally comes in two forms: Anti caking agents like tricalcium phosphate, fatty acid salts and magnesium oxide are found in unrefined sea salts which have magnesium and calcium compounds. Its products include table salt, baking soda, washing soda, rock salt and kosher salt. Table salt, which is popular in cooking, is the best for aquariums as it is composed of 97 to 99 percent sodium chloride or NaCl.

However, it also contains low concentration anti-caking agents that may be harmful to freshwater fish. Aquarium Salt, a commercial product free of additives and is composed purely of sodium and chloride ions is especially manufactured for freshwater aquariums. Salt, freshwater and other marine tanks have a particular salt for them. In the absence though of processed Aquarium Salt, non-iodized table salt that is readily available in anyone’s kitchen or dining table is the best bet.

Salt as a Water-Purifier and Fish-Medication

Present tap water usually has a very low salt content compared to water at natural breeding areas. Besides radiating a feel of home among fish, the addition of salt defeats toxic chemicals like nitrites. This way you avoid fish poisoning. Salt can also fight disease-causing parasites such as Chilodonella cyprinid, Costia, Anchorworms, pathogens like the protozoan Ichthyophthirius and skin flukes Gyrodactylus that may proliferate in the aquarium. Whenever a fish is sick or is stressed, it experiences heavy loss in ions and sodium.

The fish can benefit from the salt by getting back from it what the fish has lost due to illness or stress, and that will benefit the gills and therefore oxygen intake. In wounds, salt can aid in faster healing by the process called hyperosmolarity wherein the fish’s blood flow is encouraged to increase production of bodily fluids for fresh plasma to deal with the wound.

Salt Formula

The basic formula for a full aquarium medication is one tablespoon of salt for every five gallons of water. Thus, for a 75 gallon tank, you need 15 tablespoons of salt. This is done in the first set-up and in proceeding water changes. For example, if you change 20 gallons from the 75 gallon after one month, you only have to add 4 tablespoons of salt. Each full salt medication is good for three weeks. For short medication such as in the case of initial nitrite attack, only add one half ounce of salt per gallon of water to neutralize the tank.

The same short salt exposure is needed in an initial parasite attack: First, put 4 tablespoons of salt in a bucket with one gallon of water and then put the sick fish in the bucketfor about a half an hour which should be more than enough exposure for the fish. Generally, salt must be thoroughly pre-dissolved in another container before adding to the tank to avoid burns in fish scales and skin.

Fish Love it, Fish Love it Not

Not all freshwater fish though are compatible with salt as effective ingredient in fighting disease, parasites and nitrite-poisoning. Most freshwater fish require waters with significant salt levels but others simply do not.

For example, adding salt as a method to treat water and fish works well with swordtails, mollies, cichlids and livebearers like brackish water fish species that especially like electrolytes found in sodium. Some fish can benefit from the addition of salt by getting woulds healed, increasing gill function and preventing the formation of other toxins in the fish tank. Fish may suffer from water intoxication if they do not experience sodium chloride too often. Meanwhile, fish that are used with very soft water and those that do not have scales like the plecostomus, cordydoras, angelfish, neon tetras, cardinal tetras, rummy nose tetras, hatchetfish, elephantnoses, eels and discus are known to be allergic to salt.

Never attempt to medicate these fish using salt or else you may lose them. In aquariums with live plants, salt cannot be applied because it can be too acidic for the plants. One should be keen in observing their fish once the aquarium is sprinkled with salt to notice any unusual behavior. Others prefer to do the salt medication only with their water change. Whatever that you prefer, remember to always keep a close eye on your fish as their behavior will always tip you off to something in the aquarium may not be right.